Pool Salt Calculator
Enter your pool volume and current salt reading to find out how much salt to add. The calculator returns pounds of salt and the number of 40 pound bags, and tells you when the answer is to dilute instead.
How to use the pool salt calculator
Start with your pool volume in gallons. If you do not know it, work it out on the pool volume calculator first, because every salt figure depends on it.
Test the water and enter your current salt level in parts per million. Use a salt test strip or take a sample to a pool store. A brand new pool, or one just refilled, starts at zero.
Set the target. Most salt chlorine generators run best at 3,200 ppm, and the usual working range is 2,700 to 3,400 ppm. Check the label on your own cell, because a few models want a different figure.
Read off the pounds needed and the bag count. Add salt with the pump running, brush it across the floor so it dissolves rather than piling up, and wait 24 hours before you test again.
If your reading is already above target, the calculator switches to telling you how much water to drain and replace, because salt does not evaporate.
How this calculator works
Parts per million is a weight measure, so the calculation turns your pool into pounds of water and works from there. One US gallon of water weighs 8.34 pounds.
Take the gallons, multiply by the gap between your current and target reading, multiply by 8.34, then divide by one million. Raising 10,000 gallons from zero to 3,200 ppm needs 267 pounds of salt, which matches the chart printed on every chlorinator.
Bags are rounded up, because salt is sold in 40 pound sacks and you cannot buy part of one. Adding slightly less than the calculator says is the safer error: you can always add more, and the only way to remove salt is to drain water and refill.
When your current reading is higher than the target, no amount of salt helps. The calculator then works out how many gallons to replace with fresh water, using the ratio between the two readings. Salt stays in the pool through evaporation, so levels drift up over a season and down after heavy rain or a backwash.
Frequently asked questions
A 10,000 gallon pool starting from zero needs about 267 pounds, which is seven 40 pound bags, to reach 3,200 ppm. A 20,000 gallon pool needs about 534 pounds, or fourteen bags. If the pool already has salt in it, you only need to make up the gap. Enter your reading above. Most salt chlorine generators are designed for 3,200 ppm, with a working range of 2,700 to 3,400 ppm. Below about 2,700 the cell stops producing chlorine properly and may show a low salt warning. Above 3,400 you gain nothing, and past 6,000 the water starts to taste salty and corrode fittings. You can usually swim once the salt has dissolved, which takes about 20 minutes of brushing with the pump running. Wait 24 hours before you trust a salt reading, because undissolved salt sitting on the floor has not reached the cell yet and the meter will read low. Use pool grade sodium chloride, at least 99.8 percent pure, sold as pool salt or solar salt. Do not use rock salt, table salt with iodine, or water softener salt with additives. The additives stain the surface and cloud the water. Pool salt costs a few dollars more a bag and dissolves faster. Salt leaves only with water. Splash out, backwashing, draining, leaks and heavy rain overflow all carry salt away. Evaporation does not: the water goes and the salt stays, so evaporation actually raises the reading. A level that keeps falling with no obvious cause usually means a leak worth investigating. Yes. Past about 3,600 ppm the generator gains nothing, and high levels corrode ladders, rails, heaters and stone coping over time. The only fix is dilution: drain part of the water and refill. That is why it is better to add three quarters of what you think you need and test again. Drain some water and replace it with fresh. The share to replace is the excess divided by the current reading. A pool at 4,000 ppm aiming for 3,200 needs about 20 percent of its water swapped. There is no chemical that removes salt, and it will not evaporate away. Most pools need topping up two or three times a year, usually after heavy rain, a backwash or a partial drain. Test monthly during swim season. A saltwater pool that is not losing water should hold its level for months, so frequent additions point at a leak or heavy splash out. A saltwater pool is a chlorine pool. The generator makes chlorine from the salt as water passes through the cell, so you are not buying and pouring it. You still test free chlorine, still balance pH and alkalinity, and still shock the pool after heavy use or a storm. Starting from zero, about 400 pounds, which is ten 40 pound bags, to reach 3,200 ppm. Coming up from 2,700 ppm it takes about 63 pounds, so two bags. The gap between your reading and your target matters far more than the size of the pool on its own.Frequently asked questions
10 questionsHow much salt do I need for my pool?
What should my pool salt level be?
How long after adding salt can I swim?
What kind of salt do I use in a pool?
Why is my salt level dropping?
Can I add too much salt to my pool?
How do I lower the salt level in my pool?
How often should I add salt to my pool?
Does a saltwater pool still need chlorine?
How many bags of salt for a 15,000 gallon pool?
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